Shisha Embroidery: Mirrorwork from 13th century Persia to 21st century catwalk

August 01, 2022

My Grandmother was an amazing embroiderer and one of her favourite techniques was shisha embroidery which involves stitching shiny mirrors or metal to fabric. I wanted to try this technique out for myself and incorporated it into my newest piece of embroidery – an experimental gold and silver piece in which I tried out new techniques including bullion knots and, of course, shisha.

My gold and silver abstract embroidery

The history of shisha, also known as ‘sheesha’ or ‘abhala bharat,’ can be traced back to 13^th century Persia (modern day Iran) with the term ‘shisha’ coming from the Persian word ‘shisheh’ meaning ‘glass.’ The technique was spread by travellers during the Mughal Empire to India and further into southwest Asia.

A bag that my Grandmother made embellished with shisha embroidery

In early examples of shisha embroidery, the lower classes used chips of mica and shiny beetle wings to emulate the glittering garments of the wealthy upper-classes. These shiny adornments were later replaced by tin, silver and coins. In the early 20^th century, these decorative items were replaced with handblown glass mirrors. The glass would be blown into bubbles and then broken into small pieces – often these were left with a slight convex curve. In the later 20^th century, these mirrors were widely mass produced by machines creating a more regular shape.

Some of my Grandmother's samplers
Left: India research with sampler including shisha
Right: 'Experimental Shisha'

When the technique spread in the 17^th century, it was welcomed by Muslims who believed that the mirrors helped to blind and trap the evil eye. Artisans created and sold pieces with shisha embroidery to reflect the evil eye and bad luck. Shisha was incorporated into garments as well as decorative pieces such as wall hangings and cushions to keep the wearer and the home safe. These beliefs also spread to Hinduism and Jainism and soon followers of these beliefs were hangings shisha torans (decorative door hangings) to ward off evil spirits.

A close up of the shisha on my embroidered art

Shisha has been used to add beautiful decoration to decorative pieces and garments across the world and has developed many unique regional varieties. In Afghanistan, shisha is used to decorate prayer mats, saddles, clothes and heavily embellished cloths to wrap the Quran with. In Balochistan (in Pakistan), shisha has traditionally been stitched onto naturally dyed fabric using naturally dyed thread; this results in pieces made with muted colour schemes. In Sindh (also in Pakistan), shisha is stitched onto block-printed or resist-dyed fabric and incorporated into motifs such as peacocks and lotus flowers. In Gujarat (in India), shisha is used to tell stories with pieces being made to depict traditional love stories, battles, heroes and rulers.

There are a variety of things that you can affix to the fabric
for shisha and a variety of stitch designs you can use to affix them!

Shisha is still used today in pieces from embroidery art to wedding dresses to sarees. Shisha has also seeped onto the catwalk. In 2019, fashion designer Abhinav Mishra was interviewed by Vogue magazine (please see links below) about his use of shisha in his work. His work brings shisha into the 21^st century with stunning, contemporary garments covered in glimmering mirrors. In his interview, he discusses wanting to keep “mirror work alive through [his] collections” and “take the art form ahead and consistently innovate to create new designs.” He’s not the only fashion designer keeping this technique alive. Ashish Gupta’s ‘ss20’ collection included dresses, jackets, skirts and trousers covered with mirror work and completed with colourful thread. Australian brand, Anannasa, has created striking tops, skirts, coats and dresses completed with shisha mirrors and intricate stitching. Label Kanupriya creates modern Lehengas, Sarees, Kurta, Tunics and Dresses, many of which are embellished with shisha embroidery. There are many others who are ensuring that these techniques continue to evolve through the 21^st century.

I have thoroughly enjoyed learning about the history of shisha and trying out this technique – I will definitely be including it in more pieces in the future! Head over to @tigertailtextiles on Instagram to see more images of my golden embroidery piece and stay tuned for more pieces incorporating shisha coming soon…

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Shisha Embroidery: Mirrorwork from 13th century Persia to 21st century catwalk

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