Arpilleristas: The Sewing Rebels of Chile


In 1973, Chile saw the end of democracy. Terror reigned with the country under military rule for 17 years. Anyone who opposed this rule was arrested, tortured and often killed. In the midst of this brutality, a group of impoverished women sought to inform the world of the human rights violations occurring. This is the incredible story of how sewing acted as a source of resistance.

Augusto Pinochet was born on the 25th of November 1915 in Valparaíso, Chile. He aspired to enter the army and was accepted into the War Academy in Santiago in 1933. During his time in the army Chile was never at war, instead, Pinochet was appointed as Commander for one of the concentration camps imprisoning Communists in Chile. In 1970 a committed socialist, Salvador Allende came to power after three failed presidential bids. At this time, Latin America was in the middle of a “red scare” because, the Communist, Fidel Castro had come to power in Cuba. The USA was worried about Allende, a Marxist, coming to power in Chile so the CIA help to stage a coup to remove Allende from power. The coup was a failure and as an effect, Allende gained the support of the public and the army. In 1971, Pinochet was placed in charge of the Santiago Garrison and in 1973, he was appointed Commander-In-Chief of the army. This was just 18 days before the military coup.

On the 11th of September 1973, the citizens of Santiago were awoken by bomb blasts and smoke. Across the capital, Chile’s military jets were bombing La Moneda, the presidential residence. Allende’s allies resisted for hours before Allende eventually shot himself. The coup was a success. A four-man military junta was established, led by Pinochet, to govern the country. The army rounded up thousands of leftists, protestors, artists and intellectuals and marched them to concentration camps and stadiums where they were tortured and executed. Chile entered into a dictatorship in 1974 when Pinochet declared himself “Supreme Chief of the Nation” and gave himself 8-year terms as President. Oppression reigned. Political parties were banned, leftist media was abolished and censorship was put in place. Thousands of people were tortured, killed or forcibly disappeared. These people became known as desaparecidos. Many were held in the National Stadium where they were tortured and then executed. La Caravana de la Muerte (The Caravan of Death) was a military operation thought to have killed 97 people between the 30th of September and the 22nd of October 1973. In the Atacama Desert, leftists were worked to death or executed in camps. In the capital, Villa Grimaldi was taken over by the DINA (the secret police) and became an interrogation centre where prisoners were experimented on and tortured. In November 1975, the DINA made contact with the dictators of Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay and, later, Argentina to come up with Operation Condor, a scheme which aimed to assassinate every leftist on the continent.

During Pinochet’s dictatorship the “Miracle of Chile” occurred with the economy growing rapidly between 1976 and 1981. However, poverty was still a huge problem, many Chileans were impoverished and suffered from food shortages. In 1975, the unemployment rate was 18.7% and by 1987, 45% of the population lived below the poverty line. Women in poor and working-class households were especially affected by Pinochet’s regime. Chilean women were expected to be silent in political matters and were expected to be good mothers and wives. Many poor and working-class women were left without a source of income due to the widespread unemployment and the forced disappearances of their husbands and children. As a result of this poverty they had to seek work outside the home for the first time. The Chilean Catholic Church set up workshops where women could create and sell arpilleras. “Arpillera” means burlap/ hessian in Spanish and the women who make them are called “arpilleristas.” Arpilleras are brightly coloured patchwork pictures. In Santiago during Pinochet’s regime, the arpilleras were used as a form of passive resistance and were a source of much needed income. They also served to inform people of the human rights violations that occurred daily and the arpilleristas created a community to support each other. The arpilleristas used the cheapest materials they could find, they used flour and wheat sacks and scraps of old clothing for colour. Often the arpilleras were brought to life with 3D sewn people wearing outfits made from scraps of the clothing of disappeared loved ones. These personal touches created a heartfelt story of loss. The arpilleras were distributed through the church’s human rights group Vicaría de la Solidaridad (Vicariate of Solidarity) and soon gained the interest and attention of many people in other countries. However, it also brought the arpilleristas to the Chilean government’s attention and they started a silencing campaign to stop the spread of information. Most arpilleristas made them anonymously to try to avoid arrest and if they were ever stopped or their houses were searched, they had the arpilleras hidden inside the lining of their bedspreads, skirts and coats. The government sought to punish those who made and supported the making of arpilleras, they did this through arrests, interrogations, home visits and more forcible disappearances. However, the women did not stop.

The arpilleristas attended and ran protests. They chained themselves to the Supreme Court, torture centres and hospitals. They marched down streets holding pictures and banners with the names and pictures of their desaparecidos to make sure they would never be forgotten. They created arpilleras depicting these protests and stitched the names of the desaparecidos to show and tell the world. The arpilleras depict many scenes showing what life in Chile was like under Pinochet’s regime. A symbol that became a powerful piece of resistance was the question mark. Arpilleras showed a family eating a meal at the table with a seat empty of any missing person and instead occupied by a question mark. This symbolised all the desaparecidos who had been forcibly disappeared and the impact this had on the family left behind. It also asks the question everyone had: ¿Donde estan? Where are the desaparecidos? Other arpilleras emphasised the harsh military rule with scenes showing helicopters dropping people into the ocean, protestors rallying outside a carcel (jail) and soldiers patrolling the streets and villages. Some arpilleras showed the sheer number of people that were arrested through images of many heads, the arpilleras then focus in on individual desaparecidos’ names to show that the fight was widespread and personal. A piece entitled “Women demand justice!” shows a group of female protestors holding a banner saying “JUSTICIA” (justice) whilst a tank shot at them. Another protest piece is set in a rural area and shows women holding a sign saying “DONDE ESTAN” (where are they?). The arpilleristas emphasised that the citizens were not a threat by juxtaposing the frightening, armed soldiers dressed in dark colours with the brightly dressed women and children.

In 1988, Chile held its “si o no” (yes or no) vote to determine if Pinochet should stay in power for another 8 years. On the 5th of October 1988 it was revealed that 44% of the country voted si and 56% voted no. Pinochet declared he would never stand down but his generals knew that the US was applying pressure for him to honour the vote or he would face international consequences. Pinochet announced he would step down in two years. In 1989 the centre left candidate, Patricio Aylwin, won and was inaugurated on March the 11th 1990. Democracy returned to Chile. Pinochet remained head of the armed forces until 1998 and then was given the position of Senator for life, as well as lifetime immunity. On the 17th of October 1998, Pinochet visited London for surgery. A week earlier, an international arrest warrant had been issued by a Spanish judge because several Spanish citizens had been killed during his regime. He was arrested in the hospital. The then British Prime Minister, Margaret Thatcher, and other British MPs argued that he wasn’t fit to stand trial, so, on the 3rd of March 2000 he was allowed to fly back to Chile where upon landing, he stood up out of his wheelchair triumphantly and waved to the crowd. Chilean lawmakers started to reassess his lifetime immunity and in 2004 a state commission of crimes on the dictatorship reported that over 35,000 people had been tortured and over 3,000 murdered. His lifetime immunity was lifted. In 2005, Pinochet was placed under house arrest and in 2006 he was formally charged with kidnapping, torture and murder. Pinochet died of a heart attack on the 10th of December 2006, just days after he was declared fit to stand trial.

Today, Chile is still recovering from the dictatorship. Amnesty International reports that over 40,000 people were illegally detained or tortured, over 3,000 more were killed or forcibly disappeared and over 30,000 people fled the country. 1,300 former officers and soldiers have been tried for crimes against humanity. After 1993, arpillera workshops were set up as income-generating schemes for the impoverished. Many original arpilleristas continued the creation of their political arpilleras, and continued to stitch their stories of heartbreak and loss. Many arpilleristas never found out what became of their desaparecidos. By taking up their needles, they ensured that their stories were told and their loved ones would never be forgotten.

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Comments

  1. A very interesting read. It is incredible how women have found so many different ways to express themselves over the centuries.

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